The Water Extracts from the Oil Cakes of Prinsepia utilis Repair the Epidermal Barrier via Up-Regulating Corneocyte Envelope-Proteins, Lipid Synthases, and Tight Junction Proteins.

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE: Prinsepia utilis Royle, native to the Himalayan region, has a long history of use in traditional medicine for its heat-clearing, detoxification, anti-inflammatory, and analgesic properties. Oils extracted from P. utilis seeds are also used in cooking and cosmetics. With the increasing market demand, this extraction process generates substantial industrial biowastes. Recent studies have found many health benefits with using aqueous extracts of these biowastes, which are also rich in polysaccharides. However, there is limited research related to the reparative effects of the water extracts of P. utilis oil cakes (WEPUOC) on disruptions of the skin barrier function.

AIM OF THE STUDY: This study aimed to evaluate the reparative efficacy of WEPUOC in both acute and chronic epidermal permeability barrier disruptions. Furthermore, the study sought to explore the underlying mechanisms involved in repairing the epidermal permeability barrier.

MATERIALS AND METHODS: Mouse models with induced epidermal disruptions, employing tape-stripping (TS) and acetone wiping (AC) methods, were used. The subsequent application of WEPUOC (100 mg/mL) was evaluated through various assessments, with a focus on the upregulation of mRNA and protein expression of Corneocyte Envelope (CE) related proteins, lipid synthase-associated proteins, and tight junction proteins.

RESULTS: The polysaccharide was the major phytochemicals of WEPUOC and its content was determined as 32.2% by the anthranone-sulfuric acid colorimetric method. WEPUOC significantly reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and improved the damaged epidermal barrier in the model group. Mechanistically, these effects were associated with heightened expression levels of key proteins such as FLG (filaggrin), INV (involucrin), LOR (loricrin), SPT, FASN, HMGCR, Claudins-1, Claudins-5, and ZO-1.

CONCLUSIONS: WEPUOC, obtained from the oil cakes of P. utilis, is rich in polysaccharides and exhibits pronounced efficacy in repairing disrupted epidermal barriers through increased expression of critical proteins involved in barrier integrity. Our findings underscore the potential of P. utilis wastes in developing natural cosmetic prototypes for the treatment of diseases characterized by damaged skin barriers, including atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.