Physicochemical investigations of native nails and synthetic models for a better understanding of surface adhesion of nail lacquers.

The human nail, like any biological material, is not readily available in large amounts and shows some variability from one individual to another. Replacing it by synthetic models is of great interest to perform reproducible and reliable tests in order to assess drug diffusion or nail lacquer adhesion for example. Keratin films, produced at the lab scale from natural hair, and the commercially available Vitro-nail® sheets have been proposed as models of human nails. In this study, we have investigated in detail these two materials. Surface aspect, composition, surface energy and water permeation were determined by SEM-EDS, ATR-FTIR, XPS, DVS and tensiometry and were compared to those of nails clippings. The development of a probe tack test using a rotational rheometer allowed us to measure the adhesion of three different nail lacquers on each substrate and the results were correlated with the surface state. It is shown that except roughness, keratin films exhibit similar composition, water sorption and surface energy as human nails. Vitro-nail® presents a more hydrophilic and permeable behavior than natural nail due to probable higher proportions of amide functions and absence of disulfide bridges. With the aim to improve nail lacquer residence, the importance of adsorption, electrostatic and mechanical adhesions as well as water sorption behavior is highlighted and allowed to show the importance of roughness, a low surface energy, a moderate hydrophobicity and an ability to form hydrogen and electrostatic bonds in order to optimize adhesion.