Cystine-thiamin-containing hair-growth formulation modulates the response to UV radiation in an in vitro model for growth-limiting conditions of human keratinocytes.

BACKGROUND: Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is known to be harmful to normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) of the epidermal skin layer, as well as to hair-follicle-associated keratinocytes. An oral formulation containing l-cystine, thiamin, calcium d-pantothenate, medicinal yeast, keratin and p-aminobenzoic acid (Panto[vi]gar®) has demonstrated clinical efficacy for the treatment of diffuse telogen effluvium; however, its mode of action at the cellular level, and in particular whether protective mechanisms are involved, has yet to be elucidated.

OBJECTIVES: To assess the capacity of ingredients of this oral formulation, both separately and in combination, to modulate the effects of UVR in growth-limited NHEKs in vitro.

METHODS: NHEKs were incubated in keratinocyte basal medium, keratinocyte basal medium lacking cystine, thiamin, calcium d-pantothenate, folic acid and biotine (minimal growth medium [MGM]) or MGM plus test compound. Test compounds comprised the following four ingredients related to the oral formulation: l-cystine, thiamin, calcium d-pantothenate and folic acid (a proposed metabolite of p-aminobenzoic acid), and a combination of these (Panto[vi]gar®-in vitro correlate; P-IC). The effect of different doses of these compounds on the metabolic activity and proliferation of NHEKs was tested, as well as their influence on the impact of UV light on NHEKs assessed by monitoring metabolic activity, cell number and apoptosis induction.

RESULTS: Compared with basal medium, MGM reduced the proliferation of NHEKs in a time-dependent manner. Reduced proliferation is a characteristic of the multifactorial and complex phenotype associated with diffuse hair loss. l-cystine (50 μM) increased metabolic activity and proliferation 3-fold versus MGM (p < 0.05). Thiamin also had a significant effect (p < 0.05) on proliferation and metabolic activity of NHEKs, but calcium d-pantothenate and folic acid did not when tested individually in this in vitro model. In the presence of P-IC, metabolic activity increased 4-fold and proliferation 3-fold compared with MGM alone (p < 0.05 for both). Following UV irradiation, cells in MGM showed a 72% reduction in metabolic activity, while P-IC-treated cells showed only a 12-18% reduction. The observed prevention of the UV-induced reduction in metabolic activity was not simply due to filtering UVR by the P-IC components, as P-IC-mediated reduction of this effect persisted even when P-IC was washed out during UV irradiation.

CONCLUSION: This study demonstrated that l-cystine and thiamin are essential for proliferation of epidermal keratinocytes and suggests a novel, UV-protective potential of formulations combining l-cystine and thiamin in growth-limited inter-follicular NHEKs in vitro.