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International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Vaibhav Kaushik, Pratiksha Nihul, Sudhakar Mhaskar
OBJECTIVE: To predict consumer perceived hair breakage based on parameters from three distinct categories- 1) hair strand parameters- like curvature, stiffness and tensile strength indices; 2) hair matrix or bulk parameters- like smoothness, detangling, frizz & volume and; 3) biological factors like age, hair density. METHODS: Consumer relevant evaluation techniques were employed in a uniquely designed protocol to obtain real-life data from the consumers' head without impacting or damaging their hair...
March 13, 2019: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
L Verzeaux, S Richer, J Viguier, S Gofflo, D Boudier, E Aymard, B Closs
OBJECTIVE: Although the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 was described as involved in epidermal renewal, there is no data about a cosmetic active ingredient activating this receptor. The aim of this research work was thus to identify a natural molecule binding to this receptor in order to stimulate keratinocyte migration. METHODS: For this purpose, natural molecules were extracted from Cocos nucifera flour. Then, efficacy of this natural extract on in vitro keratinocyte migration was evaluated...
March 11, 2019: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Cheryl Leong, Bettina Schmid, Antonino Buttafuoco, Martin Glatz, Philipp P Bosshard
OBJECTIVE: Dandruff is a complex skin condition characterized by unpleasant itching and flaking of the scalp. It is primarily attributed to the over colonization of Malassezia yeasts such as M. globosa and M. restricta. Some studies also suggest the involvement of Staphylococci bacteria in dandruff disease pathogenesis. We aimed to access the effectiveness of anti-dandruff treatments by determining the efficacy of the active antifungal agents alone or in commercial shampoo formulations against Malassezia and Staphylococcus...
March 9, 2019: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
H Pageon, A Azouaoui, H Zucchi, S Ricois, C Tran, D Asselineau
OBJECTIVE: Recent findings showed that skin aging preferentially affects human papillary dermal fibroblasts suggesting that the papillary dermis represents a critical zone altered by skin aging. Based on these findings, we investigated the potential anti-aging effect of Rhamnose. METHODS: We investigated the potential anti-aging effect of Rhamnose using in vitro reconstructed skin containing fibroblasts obtained either from young or old donors, and in vivo clinical investigation...
March 7, 2019: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
R Fitoussi, G Beauchef, C Guéré, N André, K Vié
OBJECTIVE: Emilin-1 is a versatile protein abundant in tissues where resilience and elastic recoil are prominent and interacting with components of the extracellular matrix. Still, little is known about Emilin-1 in the skin. Therefore, we investigated Emilin-1 in the skin, its localisation, its fate upon ageing, its interactions with other proteins and the effect of its knockdown. METHODS: Skin explants from young or old Caucasian women, immunofluorescently labelled by anti-Emilin-1, anti-Fibrillin-1 and anti-Elastin antibodies, were analysed using confocal microscopy...
March 6, 2019: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
J M Crowther
The Stratum Corneum. Layers of dead cells, reaching their final resting place before being lost forever through the desquamatory process. This is how we have been taught to view our outermost layer of skin. But should we really be thinking of it in this way? Thinking of it purely as dead layer is like considering the surface of the Earth as just rocks, mud and water. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
February 21, 2019: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Jennifer Gherardini, Jeannine Wegner, Jérémy Chéret, Sushmita Ghatak, Janin Lehmann, Majid Alam, Francisco Jimenez, Wolfgang Funk, Markus Böhm, Natalia Botchkareva, Chris Ward, Ralf Paus, Marta Bertolini
OBJECTIVES: While the effect of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on human skin has been extensively studied, very little is known on how UVR impacts on hair follicle (HF) homeostasis. Here, we investigated how solar spectrum UVR that hits the human skin surface impacts on HF biology, and whether any detrimental effects can be mitigated by a widely used cosmetic and nutraceutical ingredient, caffeine. METHODS: Human scalp skin with terminal HFs was irradiated transepidermally ex vivo using either 10 J/cm2 UVA (340-440 nm) + 20 mJ/cm2 UVB (290-320 nm) (low dose) or 50 J/cm2 UVA + 50 mJ/cm2 UVB (high dose) and organ-cultured under serum-free conditions for 1 or 3 days...
February 11, 2019: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Bruna Romana-Souza, Andréa Monte-Alto-Costa
OBJECTIVE: Chronic stress-induced oxidative damage and protease synthesis cause a loss of extracellular matrix components promoting human skin aging. The administration of antioxidant compounds, such as those observed in olive oil, may attenuate stress-induced aging signs in human skin. Thus, the aim of this study was to investigate the effect of olive oil administration in ex vivo stressed human skin. METHODS: Explants of human skin were treated with high levels of epinephrine (as observed in stressed patients) and olive oil in medium for 13 days...
February 10, 2019: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Yang Liu, Ranran Wang, Xiaofeng He, Hongbin Dai, Richard J Betts, Claire Marionnet, Françoise Bernerd, Emilie Planel, Xiuxia Wang, Hicham Nocairi, Zhenzi Cai, Jie Qiu, Chunmei Ding
OBJECTIVE: The present study aimed to establish a predictive in vitro method for assessing the photoprotective properties of sunscreens using a reconstructed full-thickness skin model. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A full-thickness skin model reconstructed with human fibroblasts and keratinocytes isolated from Chinese skin was exposed to daily UV radiation (DUVR). We examined the transcriptomic response, identifying genes for which expression was modulated by DUVR in a dose-dependent manner...
February 5, 2019: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Warren G Bryson, Duane P Harland, Jonathan P Caldwell, James A Vernon, Richard J Walls, Joy L Woods, Shinobu Nagase, Takashi Itou, Kenzo Koike
OBJECTIVE: A new hair-care process has been specifically developed for the straightening of curved Japanese woman's hair [1]. The process included sodium 2-naphthalene sulfonate (SNS) in the reduction and oxidation steps of a conventional perming process. Our objective was to develop an understanding of how this process caused hair straightening by measuring the changes to morphology and ultrastructure between, untreated, conventionally permed and SNS permed hair. Untreated and SNS permed Merino wool fibres were used to confirm structural changes...
February 5, 2019: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Maxime Nollet, Hakime Boulghobra, Emilie Calligaro, Jean-David Rodier
OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to develop a fast and an efficient method to determine the Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance (HLB) number of cosmetic and pharmaceutics surfactants. METHODS: This method is based on the deviation of the phase inversion temperature induced by the addition of the test compound, with respect to the phase inversion temperature of a reference system, which includes an ethoxylated surfactant. This method is called PIT-deviation. RESULTS: Three calibration curves are set up with three reference ethoxylated surfactants...
January 28, 2019: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Birgitte Raagaard Thomsen, Richard Taylor, Ditte Baun Hermund, Ann-Dorit Molke Soerensen, Shuk Yee Heung, Grethe Hyldig, Peter Blenkiron, Charlotte Jacobsen
OBJECTIVE: The purpose of this study was to identify an effective lipid oxidation initiator which could predict, within one month, the long-term oxidative stability of a prototype skincare formulation. The main purpose is to find a potential initiator not to assess oxidation stability of the formulations. METHODS: FOUR INITIATORS (BELOW) WERE EXAMINED IN THREE STEPS: 1.Reaction kinetics using a Clark electrode (Oxygraph); 2. Effect of adding an initiator on the product's physical and oxidative stability in prototype skincare formulations by visual observation, peroxide value and headspace GC-MS determination of volatile oxidation products; and 3...
January 21, 2019: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Ruowei Jiang, Irina Kezele, Alex Levinshtein, Frederic Flament, Jingyi Zhang, Eric Elmoznino, Junwei Ma, He Ma, Jerome Coquide, Vincent Arcin, Esohe Omoyuri, Parham Aarabi
OBJECTIVE: To develop an automatic system that grades the severity of facial signs through "selfies" pictures taken by women of different ages and ethnics. METHODS: 1140 women from three ethnics (African-American, Asian, Caucasian), of different ages (18-80 years old), took "selfies" by high resolution smartphones cameras under different conditions of lighting or facial expressions. A dedicated software, was developed, based on a Convolutional Neural Network (CNN) that integrates training data from referential Skin Aging Atlases...
January 21, 2019: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
V L Newton, I Riba-Garcia, C E M Griffiths, A V Rawlings, R Voegeli, R D Unwin, M J Sherratt, R E B Watson
OBJECTIVE: With increasing age skin is subject to alterations in its organisation, which impacts on its function as well as having clinical consequences. Proteomics is a useful tool for non-targeted, semi-quantitative simultaneous investigation of high numbers of proteins. In the current study we utilise proteomics to characterise and contrast age-associated differences in photoexposed and photoprotected skin, with a focus on the epidermis, dermal-epidermal junction and papillary dermis...
January 20, 2019: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Stephanie A V Morris, Ryan T Thompson, Robert W Glenn, K P Ananthapadmanabhan, Gerald B Kasting
OBJECTIVE: Once penetrated into the stratum corneum, anionic surfactants bind to and denature stratum corneum proteins as well as intercalate into and extract intercellular lipids. With repeated exposures, this leads to skin dryness and irritation, compromising barrier function and skin health. The mechanisms of anionic surfactant penetration into the skin, however, are still widely debated. The objective of this study was to evaluate current theories of surfactant penetration into human skin...
January 12, 2019: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
C Messaraa, L Doyle, A Mansfield, C O'Connor, A Mavon
OBJECTIVE: In spite of hand care being a dynamic segment of skin care, hands skin physiology has been receiving little attention in comparison to facial skin. In the present study, we aimed at gathering a comprehensive set of skin data from the dorsal part of the hand to study age related-changes in two ethnic groups (Caucasian and Chinese). METHODS: Skin topographic, skin colour/colour heterogeneities, skin chromophores and skin biophysical measurements of 116 Caucasian and Chinese female volunteers aged 30-65 years old were collected in Ireland and in China as part of a cross-sectional study...
February 2019: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Stéphanie Bouabbache, Florence Pouradier, Ségolène Panhard, Cécile Chaffiotte, Geneviève Loussouarn
OBJECTIVE: To determine, in vivo, the density, growth rate and percentage of anagen phase follicles of body hairs present on 5 different skin sites (axilla, cheek, chin, leg, upper-lip) of women and men from 4 different ethnics (African, Caucasian, Chinese, North-African). The same characteristics of terminal hairs from the nape of all subjects were recorded as references. METHODS: The photo-trichogram technique was used on all skin sites (of different sizes) at variable times (2 or 3 days) post shaving of small skin areas (a few cm2 )...
December 23, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
S Aslan, T A Evans, J Wares, K Norwood, Y Idelcaid, D Velkov
Hairs collected from 257 Mexican women, residing in Mexico City, were characterized by instrumental measurements for comparison to more-commonly reported Caucasian, Asian and African hairs. Subjects were subdivided into 5 age groups and their hairs were characterized by fiber dimension, shape and tensile strength. Results show that Mexican hair appears to be intermediate of Asian and Caucasian hair in diameter and cross-sectional ellipticity. Such findings seem in line with the early and late ethnic origins of Mexican people...
December 23, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Toshie Takahashi
OBJECTIVE: We previously reported that a chemically resistant structure is present at the interface between the cuticle and the cortex of human hair. The goal of this study was to identify the position of that structure and to clarify its barrier ability. METHODS: Untreated, partially and completely decuticled hair fibers were characterized. The correlation between the number of cuticle layers and the penetration depth of a dye into the cortex was microscopically investigated...
December 14, 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Majella Lane, Marc Pissavini
No abstract text is available yet for this article.
December 2018: International Journal of Cosmetic Science
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